DSX video

 

This went up a while back, but is our latest video to date, so adding it on here.

I’ve used this stuff extensively and can vouch for it working very well indeed. It’s the most unassuming product to look at (and smells faintly like PVA glue) but it cuts down friction and works brilliantly under heat and pressure.

DSX extreme presssure lubes

There’s a whole range of DSX products using the fluoroplymer particulate technology; everything from engine additive (try it – it works!) to surface protectant, marine/automotive wax, compressor lube and cutting oil.

A mate of mine who offers engine mapping, custom builds and custom exhausts was having hassles with his pipe forming machine. Every time they needed to curve some stainless steel exhaust, striations would appear that took hours of buffing to remove:

So we got to work with some DSX grease. Two minutes after rubbing DSX into the forming dies, this was the result on a fresh piece of tube:

Here’s two images with the two together (you can click the images to enlarge them):

One very relieved Adam:

N.B.

DSX is nothing to do with Teflon. Teflon particles are jagged-edged and lock together to form a coating. The particles in DSX are 500 times smaller and smooth.  They don’t coat, they penetrate, infilling the tiniest nooks and crannies and then stay there permanently. 

DSX’s little particles are spherical and about the size of your average virus, so very small indeed. Check out the video and see.

Logan – surprisingly good

My eldest son is a film buff like me. He likes his Marvel genre stuff and recently sent me a little present right out of the blue; a copy of “Logan”.

I’ve seen two or three of the X-Men films and got on OK with them. Like most movies, as long as I can suspend disbelief reasonably well I’m happy. This means I can enjoy quite a wide variety of stuff; even outright crap. However “Logan” is definitely not in that category. This is a solid, entertaining thriller/drama.

They’ve really pulled something out of the hat with “Logan”. Unleashed from the constraints of the 12A certificate, “Logan” was able to show us a much grittier take on the whole X-Men thing. It also managed to be funnier. Hearing Professor Xavier turn the air blue was such a culture shock after his restraint in other films, it made me guffaw out loud.

I’d say, if you’re sitting on the fence about seeing “Logan”, then see it. It’s a good ol’ yarn with believable characterisation and strong performances all round. It is very violent though so if you’re squeamish it might not be for you.

Marlin 1894 – 44 Mag

Drat.

Just realised I’ve been blathering on about my love affair with Marlins and how to eradicate The Line, but not actually posted any images of the new one.

Here goes.

I’ve wondered about a Marlin lever in 45-70 at some point in the future. I’ve not yet had a chance to load for that calibre, so it would be interesting to give it a go.

The Marlin Jam

This is about the well-known problem with Marlin lever-action rifles. If you were expecting something about blues riffs or home-made preserves, you’ll be disappointed.

The carrier is the plain steel gizmo bottom centre in this image.

The Marlin Jam starts right at the beginning of the gun’s life when, even after just a few rounds, the underside of the lever (the lever cam) digs into the bottom of the carrier and creates a line.

The dreaded line.

This line worsens with time and eventually screws up the timing of the gun, with two rounds jammed together behind the chamber.

I’ve dealt with this problem a couple of times now and thankfully on both occasions with a new or nearly new gun. The procedure with older Marlins with a well-established line on the carrier is a bit more involved; it can mean more drastic measures, including a new carrier. However, you can prevent it from developing in a new gun/recurring in an older one by smoothing off  part of the lever cam as follows.

Normally, the arrowed edge is quite a sharp angle. That’s how it comes out of the factory. Here, I’ve taken preventative action and put a small radius on the edge to stop further damage.

The line, it’s burred edges taken down with emery paper and the whole flat gently smoothed over with very fine emery.

The rounded edge of the lever will no longer dig into the carrier and the line in the carrier, although still present, won’t get any worse.

I’ve only used emery on the carrier. 600 grit and then 2000 grit to polish. It’s not a good idea to start attacking the carrier with anything more aggressive as removing too much metal can make a bad situation very bad indeed.

I topped off my repair with some DSX, rubbed in well, and all was good to go. Action as smooth as butter now.

DSX Assembler grease. Ideal for a job like this. I treated the whole action with DSX before reassembly. Well worth doing. 

I love Marlins, but this one thing rankles with me a bit. It probably affects their bottom line too much to warrant fixing this issue, but these are good rifles and shouldn’t be allowed to leave the factory with this decades-old gripe still present.

Anyway, that’s how it’s sorted. There are numerous YouTube videos showing this in a lot more detail, but the above is how I fixed it.

Time to move the T7

Just a trivial thing but it may be of help to someone.

The Redding T7 press was the first I ever had and it’s been fantastic. It’s as tight and precise as it was the day I got it. Admittedly, it hasn’t been used much of late, but I leave one of my rifle calibres permanently installed on it so I don’t have to faff about.

Redding T7 (far left corner), with top of RCBS Rock Chucker just in view, bottom right. You can see the repair to the bench where the T7 sat, until yesterday.

One thing I’ve seldom got exactly right first time is positioning of presses on my bench. Some reloaders have several presses in a row, but I’ve learned that you have to plan carefully and take account of several factors. These include: room to use spanners and Allen keys,  turret-swinging room (for turret presses), plain old elbow room and, in particular, what direction the operating lever falls and how far out you need to sit or stand when using it.

It was this last thing that I overlooked with the T7. You can see from the four filled holes in the bench pictured above, that the press was reasonably close to the Rock Chucker but with about 14″ to the corner. I had thought a lot about where to put these presses, but missed one vital thing. Proximity to a corner.

The T7’s lever is quite long and comes straight out towards you, describing a large arc. If you’re right-handed, this means you need plenty of room to the left, so that you/your chair are out of the way. However, you also need to be close enough to exert enough force.

I was preoccupied by the idea of keeping the corner wing of the bench uncluttered and various other practical considerations meant that the press couldn’t go along that edge. So I placed it next to the Rock Chucker.

All seemed fine until I came to actually try and use the T7. Then I realised that 14″ wasn’t enough.  I really needed to be sitting further left and couldn’t get close in enough to operate the T7 efficiently.

So it had to be moved. It looks and feels better where it is now. I can get around to its left-hand side, close to the press but out of the way of that lever.